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This is the LitNet archive (2006–2012)
Visit the active LitNet platform at www.litnet.co.za


 
Leefstyl | Lifestyle > Kos & Wyn | Food & Wine > Rubrieke | Columns

Rubrieke | Columns


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The Primi Wharf Trail
Paul Murray - 2011-11-30
Location: Shop 7226, Upper Level, Victoria Wharf Closest parking: Victoria Wharf Shopping Centre Garage Telephone: 021 419 8750 Fax: 021 421 6036 Email: va@primi-piatti.com Website: www.primi-world.com Primi Wharf The experience of eating at Primi does not begin with Primi Wharf at the Waterfront. It goes back much, much further, to the time a great genius decided it was time to make a move. He is Nino and the Nino legend lives on. Nino Zanasia, former bassoon player...

The Planet Restaurant
Paul Murray - 2011-06-14
Untitled Document The Planet Bar The Mount Nelson Hotel Gardens Cape Town www.mountnelson.co.za For more details please contact: Tel: +27 (0)21 483 1000 E-mail: restaurantreservations@mountnelson.co.za or book online. There has been talk about the Mount Nelson’s newly furbished restaurant, the Planet Restaurant. Trendy dining places in Cape Town are not scarce. But this one is very trendy. It’s in another league. Many will already know its “little brother”, the trendy...

The Planet Restaurant
Paul Murray - 2011-06-14
Untitled Document The Planet Restaurant The Mount Nelson Hotel Gardens Cape Town www.mountnelson.co.za There has been talk about the Mount Nelson’s newly furbished restaurant, the Planet Restaurant. Trendy dining places in Cape Town are not scarce. But this one is very trendy. It’s in another league. Many will already know its “little brother”, the trendy Planet Bar. Now there is the Planet Restaurant and it certainly deserves a visit, even if just to see how the planet...

The Harlequin Restaurant
Paul Murray - 2010-12-02
The Harlequin Restaurant Voortrekker Road Parow , Western Cape Telephone: +27 (0)21 9391993 Facsimile: +27 (0)21 9391993 An outing to the other side of the Boerewors Curtain from the southern suburbs of Cape Town to celebrate Mevrou Hugo’s departure from 43 years of teaching Afrikaans was a good excuse to return to the Harlequin. It was to be a fitting tribute to an inspiring teacher. It’s not every day you go dining with Riëtte Hugo. She’s got a lot on her plate...

The Bakers Emporium, Rondebosch
Paul Murray - 2010-10-06
The Bakers Emporium Shop 10A Riverside Mall Rondebosch 082 439 6627 Gingerbread people It’s almost too good to be true, a boulangerie and a patisserie all in one which makes the most delectable breads and pastries imaginable, and it’s done there in front of you. What delight for the olfactory senses as you enter the bakery! There are also muffins filled with whatever’s good for you. Coffee served. There is secure parking. Freshly made crispy samoosas Freshly made...

The Yeoville Trail, Johannesburg
Paul Murray - 2010-09-15
Conversation at a recent get-together with colleagues from more than twenty years back centred on the topic of old times and haunts in the Johannesburg of the early eighties. We reminded ourselves how we would go for pizza to Mama’s, the Italian Restaurant in Yeoville, or to the Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet on the corner of Rockey and Bezuidenhout Streets for a late-night snack when burning the midnight oil. Even everyday shopping was easier to do by nipping across Louis Botha Avenue, than...

The Kersefontein Trail
Paul Murray - 2010-08-24
Kersefontein Guest Farm Between Hopefield and Velddrif Cape West Coast PO Box 15 Hopefield 7355 South Africa Telephone and fax: 022 783 0850 International callers: +27 (0)22 7830850 Mobile: 0834541025 info@kersefontein.co.za http://www.kersefontein.co.za/contactnew.htm Getting away from the city for a weekend is always a good idea. The beauty about our fair Cape is the choice of places. The West Coast became our designated port of call because we wanted to sample veldkool, a rare experience...

The Olive Schreiner Trail
Paul Murray - 2010-07-27
Figure 1. The Victoria Hotel, Cradock. This majestic hotel was built in 1840 and is one of the oldest of its kind in South Africa. The Victoria Hotel 36 Market Street Cradock 5880 Phone +27 (0) 48 8811322 Fax: +27 (0) 48 8815388 info@tuishuise.co.za www.tuishuise.co.za Mother and daughter team Lisa and Sandra Antrobus have created a traveller’s haven in Cradock. The Victoria Hotel, which boasts several dining rooms and well-appointed rooms in classic Victorian style in the hotel, not...

Eggs at the Lord Milner Hotel, Matjiesfontein
Paul Murray - 2010-07-06
Lord Milner Hotel Matjiesfontein Award: Three out of three stars for freshly fried free-range eggs done to a turn! (Photo courtesy of the Matjiesfontein website.) A classic majestic Victorian building set in an African Karoo landscape. The dining hall still has original features and serves an irresistible, traditional, English breakfast, eggs to order (free-range). Fresh fruit, freshly made toast and marmalade (and butter!), coffee or tea from teapots bearing the original Matjiesfontein logo....

The South African Food Scene
Paul Murray - 2010-06-24
On the historic occasion of the FIFA 2010 World Cup thousands of foreigners are currently flooding our local scene. At some or other time there will be those who will want to know more about what is really local and lekker when it comes to eating. And there will be places here and there where they will get a taste of it. But they will never get it as good as the cognoscenti know how to prepare it and serve it up. I suppose it is much the same for every country and its traditions of regional...

Nelson’s Eye, Cape Town
Paul Murray - 2010-06-17
Nelson’s Eye Cape TownAward: Three out of three. The cut of your choice – a rump, a sirloin or a fillet. (Photos courtesy of the Nelson's Eye website.)There’s a great deal of history at Nelson’s Eye, recently 50 years old. All steaks are matured for extra flavour, and the sauces include Madagascar Pepper, Monkey Gland and Mushroom. A wide range of dishes to choose from. The ambience is unbeatable. On-street parking, with guard. Steve, Tony and friendly staff in attendance....

The Glasgow Trail
Paul Murray - 2010-05-21
Glasgow in March is as cold as Cape Town in the heart of winter. There’s nothing better than soul food to warm up the inner linings of your stomach. In the aftermath of the snow and crisp air, popping into this or that eatery to view the different places, read the menus and meet some folk gave rapid insights to the friendliness of the Glaswegians. And what better a place to go than Byers Road in the West End of the city! It’s an exciting city to explore, with plenty to do and eat. www.seeglasgow.com Figure...

Bread at the Bromwell, Cape Town
Paul Murray - 2010-05-05
Bread at the Bromwell – Café Boulangerie DeliCape TownAward: Three out of three, Café Boulangerie Deli A trio – Café Boulangerie Deli – all in one, offering the best in breads, pastries and exclusive light meals imaginatively created by Italian master chef Antonio. The venue is the ultimate in dynamic colourful decor with a concierge, dressed in penguin suit, to meet you. Service unbelievably good and friendly, eating utensils from the next century. Parking...

Bizerca Bistro, Cape Town
Paul Murray - 2010-04-14
Bizerca Bistro Jetty Street, Foreshore, Cape TownAward: Three out of three vanilla seeds in the berry panacotta French fusion on the foreshore with flavours that find their way on to your plate from the artful culinary methods of a master chef are quite frankly unheard of in this neck of the woods. Just get yourself there for luncheon and bank on having some really good wine as an accompaniment – then, when the bill comes, close your eyes! Figure 1. Pig trotters were awesome – Alex from London...

The Victoria, Rothsay, Hebrides, Scotland
Paul Murray - 2010-03-17
The Victoria, Rothsay, Isle of Bute, Hebrides, Scotland Award: 3 out of three morsels of haggis Two definites for a visit to the Scottish islands, known as the gateway to the Highlands, are haggis and kipper, and both proved to be scrumptious at the Victoria with its proud tradition of a first-class table – spotless, service excellent, with stunning views on to the sea. What better way to finish than with a single malt whisky. Haggis with mashed potato Freshly caught kipper and poached egg...

The Mamma Roma Trail
Paul Murray - 2010-03-02
Anna Magnani takes the main part in Pier Paolo Pasolini’s masterpiece Mamma Roma (1962). She takes on the job of a sex worker to make ends meet, in the meantime deciding to give up her son because she struggles to bear the ignominy. Sixteen years later, now in the pound seats, she resumes life with her son ... but it does not work out and the closing scene shows her staring out the window from the apartment on to the Vatican. Only a true artist could write such a story, as the writer of one...

Murray's Food Trail
Paul Murray - 2010-03-02
The Mamma Roma Trail Anna Magnani takes the main part in Pier Paolo Pasolini's masterpiece Mamma Roma (1962). She takes on the job of a sex worker to make ends meet, in the meantime deciding to give up her son because she struggles to bear the ignominy. Sixteen years later, now in the pound seats, she resumes life with her son … but it does not work out and the closing scene shows her staring out the window from the apartment on to the Vatican. Only a true artist could write such a story,...

Gloria Jean’s Coffees, Cape Town
Paul Murray - 2010-02-24
Gloria Jean’s CoffeesCape TownAward: Two and a half (out of three) carrot cake crumbs!What better way waiting for a movie at the V&A than reading, and drinking freshly made Americano and eating warm carrot cake with the icing from sugar and yoghurt! There’s no menu. It’s all written up above the serving area – just the graphics alone are enough to get your mouth watering. The pace is secure, the staff friendly.Clockwise, from top right: Gloria Jean’s coffee shops...

The Anura Trail
Paul Murray - 2010-02-09
Commendatore Giulio Maggioni (Lord Maggioni), long-standing friend of Cape Town’s dating back to the time of Chris Barnard’s La Vita Restaurant in Newlands, expressed the wish to visit Anura. The connection between the Commendatore and Anura was established a few years back when winemaker Lance Bouma stayed over at his Hotel Monica Fiera, convenient for its proximity to the Annual Milan Fair. The latest in wine technology is annually on display there as thousands of winemakers around...

Truth, Cape Town
Paul Murray - 2010-01-26
TruthGreen Point, Cape TownAward: Three out of three coffee beans! At Truth coffee roastery you soon realise not all coffees are created equal. My choice was the Vengeance Blend, forgiving, never forgotten. Light meals (wraps) are available. There’s plenty of space and a permanent exhibition on Cape Town history, especially for history buffs. Outside seating in shade, with Table Mountain in view, makes it special. Plenty of free, on-street parking. ...

Paul Murray’s top ten culinary experiences of 2009
Paul Murray - 2009-12-14
Delectable canapés served at the graduation reception of the Silwood School of Cookery Graduation. Pol Roger Champagne Vintage 1998 with beef stroganoff made by a Russian friend, with her friend, Steve. At the table she sang a lullaby from Prokoviev in the most beautiful voice. Dining at Belthazar with my nephew Mark, to celebrate his CA exam. Chicago cut medium with mustard sauce accompanied by Kevin Arnold Wine. A private supper prepared by me for friends: Belgian endive...

Belthazar, Cape Town
Paul Murray - 2009-12-09
Belthazar V&A Waterfront Cape Town Award: It is impossible to award this one on “crumbs” ... Three tablespoonfuls of Beluga Caviar! Naming your eatery after one of the three wise men means the food must be exceptional! After the grilled prawn dish with lemon-butter salsa, the water buffalo was a rare treat. All the meat is extra-matured and the selection of wines is ad infinitum. The warehouse/industrial decor à la difference gives a unique effect. Service...

Cáfe Max in the historic De Waterkant, Cape Town
Paul Murray - 2009-12-02
Anna Ridgewell not only judges and crits food. She understands people; anticipates clients’ needs and works to create a strong morale in the kitchen. Silwood Kitchen trained her as it has many, many others in the city and the world. Anna has worked in top South African establishments including the Relais and Chateau stable. And now we have from her Café Max, renowned for its fine cookery, especially for patisserie and freshly made dishes; try the venturesome dishes – eggs Benedicte...

Bon Fromage, Newlands
Paul Murray - 2009-11-26
Bon FromageMain Road NewlandsAward: Three crumbsWhen the poet said “Give them bread and games!” he never dreamt it would be in the heart of Newlands at Bon Fromage, where Brian bakes fresh French artisanal loaves on the hour and serves a selection of artisanal cheeses. The idea of “light, simple and healthy” is borne out by natural ingredients and traditional methods. Secure parking available. Visit the website for details. Clockwise, from top right: Bon...

A little bit of Machiavelli at the Waterfront
Paul Murray - 2009-10-22
The words of the wise Florentine Machiavelli, that "Benefits should be conferred gradually; and in that way they will taste better", could well be used to explain Balducci's rise from a coffee bar nine years ago to one of the Mother City's top fine-dining haunts. In fact, Machiavelli himself would have felt completely at home at Balducci’s on the Waterfront in Cape Town, because there is so much that is Florentine right here. Sent to Villa Mangiacane, the original Machiavelli...

The Coffee Trail
Paul Murray - 2008-07-30
Lourensford Estate, Somerset West – Home to the Coffee Roastery It’s in the beans! That’s the "Bible" when it comes to coffee. They (the beans) give it the crema, and the vuma. Coffee is the new energy, tea rooms are passé. Espresso is coffee made under pressure — from the mean machine. Question is: Can you take it? Blends of different types give the mighty taste, keep you awake and make you crave. It’s a brave new world! At Lourensford in Somerset...

The Meloncino Trail
Paul Murray - 2008-06-03
The Meloncino Trail - Cape Town The Richetto al Grappolo d’Oro Trail – Roma, Italy Meloncino recently opened its doors to offer Italophiles, visiting Italians and...

The C Louis Leipoldt Trail
Paul Murray - 2007-12-12
C Louis Leipoldt is associated with Afrikaans poetry. One thinks of classics such as "Oktobermaand", or "In die konsentrasiekamp". This polymath, cum universal cum Renaissance man was a fine chef. While studying medicine at Guy’s in Chelsea in London, as if he had not had enough of dissecting bodies at medical school, he went across to The Strand to wash dishes in the kitchen of the greatest of all chefs, Auguste Escoffier, at the Savoy. Quite remarkably, it was not long...

The joys of Stir Up Sunday
Michael Olivier - 2007-12-04
As a little boy I was very aware of Stir Up Sunday. Stir Up Sunday is the last Sunday before advent on the Christian calendar and the day on which, by tradition in our family, the Christmas pudding was prepared. There are English records of what was then known as Christmas Porridge going back to the 14th century, with ingredients such as beef and mutton, prunes, spices and wine rather than the fruit and nuts which we know today. In England in 1664, Oliver Cromwell banned the pudding as he thought...

The Eland Trail
Paul Murray - 2007-11-06
The roads in the Karoo are dusty Driving out into the open, breathing clean air … these are becoming newly discovered features of the ancient Karoo. The stressful life of the city and the pressures brought to bear upon residents, provide a new meaning out there for many. More and more people are finding solace, even setting up home in what used to be a tiny Karoo dorp or in one of the bigger towns. Property prices in Aberdeen, Graaff-Reinet and Nieu-Bethesda are unprecedented....

The Khayelitsha Trail
Paul Murray - 2007-09-19
Following food trails leads you to places you might not necessarily have gone to in the first place, as was the case one evening when my fancy led me to (certainly for me) to "the road less travelled".And different it was.Khayelitsha is a suburb of Cape Town just like any other, having its own selection of places to eat, although getting around might not be that easy. The fact I was accompanied by a local resident must certainly have contributed to the smooth running of the visit. Khayelitsha...

From my kitchen table: Offal - definitely not awful
Michael Olivier - 2007-08-28
Winter is real offal and red wine time. Maddy and I recently acquired a brand new matt black Le Creuset casserole. It replaced one which had been used by my mother when I was a boy - an enamelled version - which after 50 years had given up the ghost and started shedding its enamel. It was a sad day when we said goodbye to that pot of my childhood. We opted for a cast-iron one this time in the hope that it would outlast us and possibly our children. And I am as pleased with it as anyone who has bought...

The Drostdy Trail
Paul Murray - 2007-08-01
Travellers visiting the Karoo town of Graaff-Reinet enter the distant past. Seated in the antique chairs at the antique tables of the Drostdy Hotel’s majestic dining hall, which was once lit by 144 candles glowing incandescently from the brass candelabras hanging from the wooden ceiling, one can enjoy a style of dining that has not changed in 200 years! Broad-beamed floorboards of yellowwood add to the warm and welcoming feeling, inducing an at-home ambience. The table is classic slow-food....

My kitchen table: Lamb Curry and a couple of good books
Michael Olivier - 2007-07-24
The kitchen table has been a busy place these past few weeks as we work to rekindle the tastes of our childhood with slow-cooked food, which always seems to smell part food and part of the smell of an Aga stove in the kitchen. Pigs' heads and trotters were cooked down into a delicious brawn, sheep's trotters and tripe made "afval" (offal) which my father so loved, pigeons from our loft were braised in the slow oven in red wine, and the muscovy ducks which inhabited our backyard were roasted...

The Mamma Roma Trail
Paul Murray - 2007-06-26
When you dine at Mamma Roma’s you can surely say Mamma Mia! Italians would exclaim the cooking is like Mamma’s – made with care and really nice. Like good Catholics they do not believe in cutting back on the number of Babba Romas, so there are five already in existence and another on the way. Go to www.mammaroma.co.za to see the locations. Romano and Cristina Gorrini are the perfect pair when it comes to Italian restaurateurs. They are Italian thoroughbreds with their feet firmly...

My kitchen table: Guavas, quinces and old Cape Bredie
Michael Olivier - 2007-06-05
As the guava was planted at the Cape by Van Riebeeck and his successors, there can hardly be a farmstead in the Cape that does not have a guava tree growing somewhere near it. Ice cold guavas poached in lemon-fragranced sugar syrup and served with warm vanilla custard flavoured with almond-scented peach leaves was almost a staple diet for us in winter when these wonderful pink fruit with their distinctive sweet perfume reminiscent of tropical fruit were in season. We had one white guava tree in...

My kitchen table: Early winter brings great joys and memories of childhood
Michael Olivier - 2007-05-09
Early winter brings great joys and memories of childhood. Like memories of pomegranates, of which well-known South African poet Ingrid Jonker wrote, “laughter is like a split-open pomegranate.” Laughter was ours as we threw the ripe-red stoep-polished fruit against the cellar wall to crack it open so that we could extract the juicy red sweet sour pearls, the juice of which dribbled down our shirts. These same pearls together with faggots of apple mint my mother added to the remnants of...

My kitchen table: With the arrival of autumn ...
Michael Olivier - 2007-04-12
I just love this early autumn weather - the extreme heat of the Cape summer is a thing of the past, leaving us with champagne days; April breezes kick up flurries of early dried leaves on the pavements; and there is dew on the lawn early in the morning when I let the dog out and drink my cup of steaming Assam tea, listening to the olive thrushes proclaiming their territory and drinking in the fresh morning air. After the hectic summer it is time in the evenings, with our legs under our kitchen...

Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue
Michael Olivier - 2007-02-12
Thought I’d use the old saying for what a bride should wear as the basis for my story to you this time. Something old Well not old really, but perhaps something a little forgotten? Wineries that have been around for a long time, making great wines consistently. Simonsig Estate in Stellenbosch and Landskroon in Paarl are just two such places. I was on Simonsig Estate recently, a bit of a reminisce as my wife, Maddy, worked there some thirty years ago. Johan and Francois Malan, owners...

Murray’s Food Trails – The ''Eastern Eastern Cape'' Food Trail
Paul Murray - 2007-02-07
A feature of the Eastern Cape landscape is the return to game, and less evidence of merino sheep farming. The modern world and high technology have created new markets for cloth. Wool has become too expensive for the ordinary person in the street. When one is travelling across the plains of Camdeboo between Graaff-Reinet and Pearston, a lonely road that stretches for miles, the game feeding off the veld is marvellous to see. The eland, after having been hunted out in the 18th century, are back, and...

The Lafayette Food Trail
Paul Murray - 2006-11-14
Dining at Lafayette will transport you across three continents: Africa, Europe and the United States. Eating here is as exotic as the revolutionary ideas of the Marquis de Lafayette himself. He was the first Frenchman to come to the assistance of the Americans in the revolutionary wars against the English. There is a deep irony here. It was at a dinner on 8 August 1775 where he met the Duke of Gloucester, who showed great sympathy with the Americans in their struggle against the English, who...

The Harlequin Trail
Paul Murray - 2006-10-10
In the world of stage drama, as a source of stage comedy, Harlequin is usually cast as the servant of a lover of some sort, and ends up foiling his master’s plan. All along he pursues his own interest in Columbina, a fictional character in the Commedia dell’Arte, whose meaning is "Little Dove". She too is a servant, comic like her lover Harlequin. Two things supersede Harlequin’s lust for Columbina: his fear for his master and his outright desire for good food. The...

The Belthazar Trail
Paul Murray - 2006-08-17
Dining at Belthazar is a rich experience. It's not just about sitting down and enjoying your meal in the company of friends. It's that too. But it's much more. This amazing and unique Cape Town Waterfront dining spot allows the patron to play off its many talents.And talented it is!It admits to having a wharf warehouse feel about it. Stacked, exposed wine cases from South Africa's wine estates reach the top of the ceiling. There are 600 fine wines to choose from, including rare vintages.At the same...

My kitchen table: Highlights of 2005
Michael Olivier - 2006-07-07
As the year approached its end, I looked back on 25 great experiences of the year for me. I hope that you will try some of them to create the same magical moments for yourself, magical moments to look back on and from which to draw joy during 2006. And of course it's all about beds, books, plates, people and wine, in no particular order. 1. The food of the double Franks. The two Franks of Constantia Uitsig, frankly producing fabulous food. La Colombe's Franck Dangereux, the most passionate chef...

My kitchen table: Wonderful cookery books
Michael Olivier - 2006-07-07
I must tell you about a series of the most wonderful cookery books which have passed across my kitchen table recently. This will certainly make your Christmas gift choices easier. The author of one of them was someone I had had a long-time dream to meet: Lyn Hall. Lyn was born in South Africa and grew up in Durban. She went to live in England some years ago and has become totally immersed in food, wonderful food people and teaching. On meeting her I was taken in by her beauty and her trés...

My kitchen table: The aromas of comfort food
Michael Olivier - 2006-07-07
The kitchen table has been busy this past month with the onset of winter. A whole new variety of foods find their way into the food halls of our supermarkets and even the little corner shops. Suddenly we are charmed by the wonderful flavours of seasonal fruits like quinces, persimmons, granadillas and a variety of soft-skinned easy-peeling citrus - and strawberries. How amazing that we now have day-neutral strawberries which ignore the Circadian cycle and simply continue flowering and producing the...

My kitchen table: The end of summer
Michael Olivier - 2006-07-07
As the temperatures drop at the end of summer and those of us resident in the Cape hope for some meaningful autumnal rains, thin summer comforters are replaced with winter duvets and thoughts turn to comfort food. Last week I had lunch with Franck Dangereux, my favourite Cape chef, and was privy to some of the dishes on his winter menu. Franck cooks at La Colombe on the Constantia Uitsig Estate. I am not sure how I have lasted for almost 60 years without eating bourride, having read about it and...

My kitchen table
Michael Olivier - 2006-07-07
I am reading Elizabeth David. Again. This time it's a collection of her works called South Wind through the Kitchen, chosen after her death by people who knew her. I am reminded - again - that this lady is not only a wonderful writer but also a social historian; she also almost single-handedly introduced the British to European and Middle-Eastern Food after the horrors of the Second World War and the food rationing which continued until the early 1950s. She has an ability to use words that make...

My kitchen table: Old food, colourful food, great food
Michael Olivier - 2006-07-07
With all the fashion for Asian food, fusion food and con-fusion food, there is something comforting about old food, colourful food and great food. I have been fortunate to have been exposed twice recently to one of the greatest of the old food cultures - the food of Italy, perhaps the best known of the earliest of the foreign cuisines in South Africa after French. (Chinese was perhaps next, followed by the slew of nationalities that makes eating out so exciting in Cape Town and indeed many cities...

The Italian Trilogy Food Trail
Paul Murray - 2006-07-07
The Rotunda on Beach Road, Sea Point is gone! Now the view really works. Stand on the site where it once stood and gaze over Table Bay. You can see the sea. Turn around and look in the other direction towards the mountain. You look straight at one of Cape Town’s landmark buildings that looks like a giant-sized fish tank - La Perla! The restaurant is about to celebrate its Jubilee Year! Recently, hotelier friends from Milan made their twenty-seventh visit to Cape Town. Dining all over in...


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