Hierdie is die LitNet-argief (2006–2012)
This is the LitNet archive (2006–2012)
Michael Olivier - 2006-07-07
As the temperatures drop at the end of summer and those of us resident in the Cape hope for some meaningful autumnal rains, thin summer comforters are replaced with winter duvets and thoughts turn to comfort food.
Last week I had lunch with Franck Dangereux, my favourite Cape chef, and was privy to some of the dishes on his winter menu. Franck cooks at La Colombe on the Constantia Uitsig Estate. I am not sure how I have lasted for almost 60 years without eating bourride, having read about it and seen pictures of it. Franck's one was of kingklip, a glorious, crispy-edged cooked-to-perfection piece of it nestling on a bed of aioli - redolent of roasted garlic - covered with a rich creamy fish sauce dotted with peas. His coq au vin will be made not from a capon but from organic chickens from Elgin and there will be a daube de boeuf, comfort foods all.
Franck's winter menu is on offer in 2-, 3- or 5-course options and served with carafes of the eponymous Constantia Uitsig Wines - always a treat. One of my more amusing moments with Franck - and one which highlighted the sort of enthusiasm and professionalism with which he practises his craft - was seeing him on the floor with a huge industrial beater filled with egg yolk and sugar foam, heating the side of the bowl with a blowtorch to cook the sauce and pouring in rosé Billecart-Salmon Champagne to make a pink Champagne sabayon to go with vanilla poached pears.
His book Feast is - forgive the pun - an absolute feast of food divided into seasons of both restaurant and "home" food. Beautiful pics and some enchanting ones of his children. Recently won the Gourmand Awards for the Best Chef Cook Book in the World.
One of my favourite English food writers is Jane Grigson, and I am currently reading her English Food. Love her titles - so simple and to the point. I am fascinated that in contrast to the male-dominated French food-writing school, the really prolific food writers in England are women - Eliza Acton, Hannah Glass, Mrs Beeton, Elizabeth David, Margaret Costa, Marguerite Patten (saw her on TV the other day - just produced her 66th book; and she was demonstrating on TV as far back as the late 1940s).
Here, too, women foodies rule: Hildagonda Duckitt, Mev Dykman, Hilda Gerber, Aagot Stromsoe, Lesley Faull, Betsie Rood and Annette Kesler, to name but a few.
All this talk of comfort food … perhaps you would like to try a real tomato bredie. This is one I took to Australia for the Margaret River Wine Festival that takes place in November each year. I did a Cape Malay Buffet there on Voyager Wine Estate. Maddy and I took months to reconstruct Malay dishes, and this is one of them. From a food point of view I was tackling the lion in its den - the Australian food is just wonderful in homes and in restaurants.
Michael and Maddy's Tomato Bredie
The better the stock, the better the bredie. We often use Ina Paarmans eponymous stock powders with great success. Using mutton rather than young lamb adds to the flavour as well. Louis Leipoldt is a great believer in shaking the pot quite often; this helps the sauce to emulsify.
Serves 6 people.
Some wine suggestions:
And talking of wine - some interesting bottles have crossed my kitchen table in the last month. Glen Carlou Pinot Noir - some call it the heartbreak grape - David Finlayson reveals the charm and feminine elegance of this wine so superbly. Beguiling ripe fruit wrapped in red velvet. Ridgeback, you will recall I mentioned the Sauvignon Blanc last month, produces a Shiraz - a whopper of a wine made by Cathy Marshall who is in love with the wines of the Rhone - and her Viognier is going to be a knockout wine in 2005.
Petrina and Rob Visser are soft ripening cheese specialists in Klapmuts - and their new Huguenot, a medium hard rinded cheese was one we enjoyed at the kitchen table - on its own with crusty bread and a glass or two of wine. Taken with a dab or two of Cheese Cheer, a stunning little jar of fruit relish - our favourite is the black cherry and star anise - made by Raymond and Betty O'Grady of Hillcrest Berry Orchards on Helshoogte. Friends for almost 30 years, we've all grown up on what my children call Raymond's Jam.
Well, let me scrub down the old oak kitchen table. I'll keep my notebook and pencil handy so I'll have lots to talk about next month. Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you would like to know more about wines I have tasted and dishes we've enjoyed. Please visit my website, http://www.noshnews.co.za/. There's a mine of information there about books, wine, places to stay and good food.
Till next time, eat and drink well.